Could this Orc line have potential?

Digger Goreman · Post by **Digger Goreman** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:47 am

Saw them on Tabletop Gaming News and thought the poses might be a little more dynamic....

http://www.webstoreinchhighgames.com/savage-orcs.html

Joemanji · Post by **Joemanji** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 11:11 am

Nice. Resin though.

Digger Goreman · Post by **Digger Goreman** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:29 pm

As an honest question, since I haven't painted/dealt with any resins yet, what are the advantages and disadvantages (from the owner/painter point of view) of resins vs metals...?

tenwit · Post by **tenwit** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:40 pm

Can't say anything about the painter's point of view, but from the owner's point of view, they cower before (and frequently, beneath) your heavy metal big guys. When trolls fall over, resin-orcs go flying..

Dark Lord (retired) · Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:04 pm

I like the torsos an feet! The other stuff wouldn't be useful on a sports mini but with a few Black Orc heads and some plastic orc arms w/ Impact shoulder pads you could be in business!

Pil · Post by **Pil** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:46 am

Vomit Lickspittle wrote:As an honest question, since I haven't painted/dealt with any resins yet, what are the advantages and disadvantages (from the owner/painter point of view) of resins vs metals...?

Resin doesn't bend, it only breaks (though there are also slightly flexible resin miniatures which don't break as easily, these are probably made from the same stuff), you can't cut it, but you can file and drill it. In general ít's inferior to metal but it captures detail better and it's cheaper. This means your conversion options are a bit more limited, but since they come as multipart models it's not a big problem. Painting is basically the same, but give a good wash up with a detergent to clean off the grease from the mould, otherwise undercoating and painting work the same.

That said, there are lots of different kinds of resin, some are very lightweight and soft, and can be cut, some are heavy and hard (usually larger resin vehicles and terrain pieces though) and can mostly be sawn, filed and sanded.

These models definately have potential, though you will probably need to supply your own left hands as I doubt they can be cut from the shields very well

Maleficum · Post by **Maleficum** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 3:38 pm

For those of us with children, resin is supposedly highly toxic, and you should work with a "mouth-protection" when gluing models (at least if you need to file or something).

Otherwise I've seen Resin-models beeing a pain to glue.

Digger Goreman · Post by **Digger Goreman** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:52 pm

Thanks, guys, the tips and info are appreciated....

Pil · Post by **Pil** » Thu Nov 01, 2007 1:25 pm

Resin isn't toxic as far as I know, but the fine dust when filing/sanding it is (like all fine dust). As far as glueing is concerned, if you clean off the release agent (grease), use superglue and the pieces fit together well I don't think it should be a problem

Buggrit · Post by **Buggrit** » Thu Nov 01, 2007 1:43 pm

Resin needs a really good wash before painting to ensure that all the release agents are gone from the mini... otherwise they don't take paint properly (at all!)