Talk Fantasy Football

Hi,

I have just recently got into converting miniatures, having painted the standard minis for years, and though I'm not too great at the moment I am getting quite ambitious.

Plastic miniatures are no problem, but when I'm wanting to do head/arm/torso/whatever swaps on metal minis I have problems cutting them.

I have just begun using a GW fret saw (anyone know where to get extra blades from- I live in the UK and my local B&Q and Focus don't do them- or is a fret saw the same as a coping saw???) and though I can make progress I have already broken 2 blades cutting off just one (admittedly thick-necked) head. is this normal? Or does my technique just stink?

I also find it hard work (which I'm not too averse to, but if it can be avoided...) and am wondering about getting a Dremel or similar.

Does anyone have any experience about whether I will find this easier or am I just wasting money? Specifically I am looking for something to cut (in a straight line) arms and heads etc from metal miniatures. I can already do plastics well, I am just having problems with metal minis.

If a Dremel or similar would be useful, does anyone have any recommendations as to which model/make etc are good- I have seen 'rotary tools' priced from 20 pounds (UK) up to around 100- which are good/bad/ugly etc?

If any of these questions have been asked before I apologise- I have only just regained internet access after months of off-line existence.

Sorry for the large number of questions, any help anyone can offer will be gratefully received.

Thanks,

Tom

Errm,

I was going to add some more stuff to the above message when my computer announced it was shutting down (I hate technology sometimes...) and I had just enough time to hit 'submit' before I blacked out (how heroic!).

My fret saw technique: using a small clamp I hold the figure securely then tighten the fret saw blade until it's really tight, then apply just enough force whilst sawing to make progress, and I find that the saw blades break very easily (in a very dangerous way- after the first one nearly took my eye out as part of the blade hit me just above my eyebrow I have taken to wearing goggles when doing this work). I am trying to keep the blade aligned with the direction of the cut, so I don't think it's due to saw blade rotation (which I can see being one possible problem). Any advice folks?

I only play Blood Bowl and I am aware that these issues are probably addressed on other modelling sites but not playing any other GW games I don't know where such info can be found. If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks again,

Tom

I would get what in the US is called a razor saw if you are having problems with breaking. If you are using what I thik you are a razor saw has alot thicker Blade with more surfacr area which makes it harder to break. Should help you out alot with blade breakage.

http://www.hobbico.com/tools/hcar0240.html

Thought this link might help a bit. I'm not sure if this is the same thing as the saw you are using I would suggest a Leather toothed Vice to hold your projects while you cut as blade breakage is usually an issue of bind and less of pressure. Make sure to do slow straight cuts.

Thanks for the advice, and the link.

I've never seen or heard of a razor saw before, but will look around and see if I can find one.

To clarify, here's a link to the GW UK online store entry for the saw I'm using (I hope it works...)

http://uk.games-workshop.com/storefront ... nav=300810

Just one thing: I'm unclear what you mean by 'blade breakage is usually an issue of bind and less of pressure. '- what does 'bind' mean when used in this context? Excuse any ignorance, I'm not very technical and definitely new to this kind of thing.

Thanks for the other advice- I'm off to experiment now- I'll let you know how things turn out! Slow, straight cuts... my new mantra!

Hopefully I'll have my new team done in time for the Blood Bowl!

Cheers,

Tom

Tomba wrote: Just one thing: I'm unclear what you mean by 'blade breakage is usually an issue of bind and less of pressure. '- what does 'bind' mean when used in this context? Excuse any ignorance, I'm not very technical and definitely new to this kind of thing.

If the blade is not kept perfectly straight and level you cause the blade to heat more as you cut. If you move the blade slowly it is easier to keep it straight. Hard to diagram but here goes .

Good Cut

mmmmm|mmmmmm

the m's are your metal and the | is your blade if it's straight up and down compared to your metal then your going to get a good cut with a very small chance of breaking the blade. Also don't push hard let the teeth on the blade do the work for you.

mmmmm/mmmmmm

This would be an example of bind, the blade is turned in the cut after a certain depth which causes more friction more heat and a greater chance for the blade to break. Your blade should always be straight in the cut tight in the saw but not so tight it doesn' have slight give. hand tight and a quarter turn is about the universal rule for tightening blades I've found. All this applies to basically anytype of cutting be it wood or metal plaster etc. Good luck and if you still have trouble pickup a razor saw. Any train supply shop in your area should have them as should any good hardware store as they do have uses outside of the hobby industry.

I've used a friends GW saw before, and my verdict? Its CRAP. THe blades snap far too easily. I've been using one that I bought at a dollar store years ago and it works much better. Goodluck.

Thanks for the advice- I'll try to find a razor saw, and then we'll see if it's my technique or quality of the blade.

Of course, it possibly could be both.

I think I probably am using too much pressure, so I'll see how things go with less pressure.

I appreciate the time you've given to help me out- thanks, Khaine.

Tom

I mostly use a nailclipper (that's the word, right?) that looks like a small pair of scissors with large handles, a bit like a small version of those gardening tools. It's really sharp, and at the same time I can put on a lot of pressure with those handles. Works great.

How do you get flat cuts using those? or do you just file down any resulting /\ from the cut? Personally I like the razor saw because it takes out very little dimension and allows a nice clean pin ready cut.

tomba,i just got a dremel today and trust me it rocks!! its the 285 multi pro and came boxed with 8 attachments(including cutter) and cost £29.98 from B&Q! the more powerful model the 395? is far more expensive but @33,000 rpm the one i've got is just fine thanks
If the budget can stretch GET ONE!
the attachments cost from a couple of ££'s upwards
remember to wear safety stuff though cos it takes no prisoners and its hard to dial 999 with no fingers
got a hobby clamp from HOMEBASE for about a tenner too!so all in all a good days shopping

Hey Tom,
I too use a razor saw, had the same one for years. A saw of the type you're using is only really useful for getting into those places where a razorsaw won't go because of the height of the blade. If you're have to use it, slight pressure on the forward stroke only and gob on it now and then (or use some other form of lubrication) both to well..lubricate and cool it.

Andy at Heresy carries razorsaws, nice looking set of two different blades and a handle which fits exacto blades for £7.
http://www.heresyminiatures.com/

Which B&Q did you find the Dremel for £29.98 in? Online it's £69.99...

B&Q falkirk £29.98! it was in a clear plastic moulded box with 7 attachments clearly visible and the 8th (the disc cutter) in a kind of spare parts tub.I was really surprised to see it for that price because i had priced them weeks ago and found them a bit too expensive(the 395?-approx £70 and the 285 approx £50).there were about 12 boxes of them left.try to see if your local one can get them transferred or failing that if you really want one we could arrange for me to send one down for you

Thanks for the tips, guys.

I evetually picked up a razorsaw (just like the one you linked, Woody, but I told you that on Fridasy night!) and thanks to Deathwing and Khaine's advice, I can confirm it is much, much better than the GW thing, and I would use this in preference to the GW saw or the clipper for cutting any metal thicker than 0.5mm or so.

Once I've finished my Mummies (I used them part-finished at the Blood Bowl) I may post them if I'm happy enough with the paint job...

Cheers,

Tomba

Ewan, does this set come with a tool which you can actually cut metal with?

I saw that set in my local B&Q (Bishop Auckland) but couldn't see a tool which looks like it can cut metal. You said there was a cutting tool- does it work on metal and plastic, and was it meant to be included or was it a mistake?

If it does I'll pick one up asap as I've wanted one for a while

Thanks for the recommendation,

Tomba