My first ever greenstuff sculpt..(updated 16th Oct)

[Ewan]

Taken from Specialist games forum -

Vault 1.10

31) Norse team given a Star Snow Troll (Icepelt Hammerblow) to replace Grashnak
Plays for Norse
340,000
5/6/1/9
Loner, Block, Claws, Disturbing Presence, Frenzy, Mighty Blow, Regeneration

My league commish agreed to give it a whirl, so I thought I would try to make one from scratch. I have done a few conversions on the "heavy" side of converting (who can forget the dancing stegadon cheerleader ) So attempting something like this was not really daunting to begin with but I wish I had done concept drawings and referenced some stuff rather than "winging" it as usual

Thanks for all the kind words so far guys!

[Chairface]

Ewan can you post a pick of that cheerleader? I don't think that I've seen it!

[bound for glory]

are you planning on doing a casting of it? looks great! i'd buy one

[Ewan]

@ Chairface - Am trying to get the "dancing steg" back from the guy I did it for but I only have the digi cam till Sunday (note to self - buy a camera as soon as poss) So in all likelihood it won't be till next weekend before pics.

@BFG (and others) - I would love to cast it but I have no idea how to do something like that or how much it would cost to do either...

[fen]

If you do cast it, I'd certainly be interested in one. Unfortunately I can't help with how you'd go about casting the mini, so I'll probably have to make do with a Yehtee mini for my snow troll.

It's a superb piece of work and considering that it's your first pure sculpt it's an amazing accomplishment. You should do more sculpts once this one is finished, there's a talent there that should be honed.

[Joemanji]

Just found this over on the NAF forums:

I've made some molds for hand-pouring figs. I'd figured out the basic system from having used some Prince August molds. Get hold of one of their starter kits if you can -- you'll get the tiny teflon skillet, silicon, hardboard frames and instructions. Practicing on this will give you a pretty good idea of what its all about.

I got a tube of high-temperature silicone gasket at an auto parts store for the molds. Used Lego blocks to make the shape to hold the mold. Used vaseline thinned with mineral spirits as a release agent inside the legos, on the master figure, and between the two halves of the mold as your making each stage.

Set the Lego frame on a smooth piece of hardboard. Also cut a piece of hardboard that fits snugly inside the Lego frame. When you make the second half, use this piece to press down on it to make a smooth flat surface. This will help clamp the mold shut while you're casting.
Pour the first half, set the figure in it, and press in the key locks. Let set completely. Do not remove the figure before making the second half.

When you make the first half of the mold, be sure to press some divots into it that will serve as locking keys to hold in alignment. When you make the second half on top of that, it will naturally create the matching parts of the locks.

As well as putting the figure(s) in the mold, make a conical lump for each one to put in with it as a pouring spout. You can use an XActo knife to carve some ventilation lines in the mold to help the casting. The vents are trial and error -- as you make the first few castings, you'll see the bits that aren't filling out right -- add vents to those bits. (And I've added vents to the Prince August molds too -- they help a lot.)

When you're ready to cast, sprinkle the inside of the mold with a bit of powdered silicon as a release agent. Clamp the mold with two pieces of hard-board on the outside (these keep the clamp from distorting the cavity). Melt some scrap figure metal (old ugly figs (without paint!), bits of sprue, etc.) in a tiny teflon pan on the stove top. Use good venitillation and a good respirator.

Stick a used matchstick into the molten metal. It should singe slightly when ready -- don't make the metal too hot -- it will damage the mold.

Try not to melt much more than you need for each casting, but you can keep re-using excess metal. Just pour off the lumps of slag and discard.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Maureen

[Khaine]

Just found this over on the NAF forums:

I've made some molds for hand-pouring figs. I'd figured out the basic system from having used some Prince August molds. Get hold of one of their starter kits if you can -- you'll get the tiny teflon skillet, silicon, hardboard frames and instructions. Practicing on this will give you a pretty good idea of what its all about.

I got a tube of high-temperature silicone gasket at an auto parts store for the molds. Used Lego blocks to make the shape to hold the mold. Used vaseline thinned with mineral spirits as a release agent inside the legos, on the master figure, and between the two halves of the mold as your making each stage.

Set the Lego frame on a smooth piece of hardboard. Also cut a piece of hardboard that fits snugly inside the Lego frame. When you make the second half, use this piece to press down on it to make a smooth flat surface. This will help clamp the mold shut while you're casting.
Pour the first half, set the figure in it, and press in the key locks. Let set completely. Do not remove the figure before making the second half.

When you make the first half of the mold, be sure to press some divots into it that will serve as locking keys to hold in alignment. When you make the second half on top of that, it will naturally create the matching parts of the locks.

As well as putting the figure(s) in the mold, make a conical lump for each one to put in with it as a pouring spout. You can use an XActo knife to carve some ventilation lines in the mold to help the casting. The vents are trial and error -- as you make the first few castings, you'll see the bits that aren't filling out right -- add vents to those bits. (And I've added vents to the Prince August molds too -- they help a lot.)

When you're ready to cast, sprinkle the inside of the mold with a bit of powdered silicon as a release agent. Clamp the mold with two pieces of hard-board on the outside (these keep the clamp from distorting the cavity). Melt some scrap figure metal (old ugly figs (without paint!), bits of sprue, etc.) in a tiny teflon pan on the stove top. Use good venitillation and a good respirator.

Stick a used matchstick into the molten metal. It should singe slightly when ready -- don't make the metal too hot -- it will damage the mold.

Try not to melt much more than you need for each casting, but you can keep re-using excess metal. Just pour off the lumps of slag and discard.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Maureen

WOOT knew my mindless question was good for something besides taking up space . I asked about making molds, and found a place to buy a "Kit" to make molds.

http://www.miniaturemolds.com/mainframe.htm

This seems to be the cheapest and most user friendly mold I have found.

BTW I actually dig the " THICK ankle versino of this. It reminds me of something I have seen before, but I like it. Then again I like sturdy looking mini's if they are big guys. I am going to use 2 durthu from the old WHFB line for treemen for my halfling team to mess around with in my next league.

[MattRobson]

yeah durthu is a great mini, i use one for my flings but he is a complete kknightmare if he gets knocked over cos he's huge!

[Chairface]

If you do cast it, I'd certainly be interested in one. Unfortunately I can't help with how you'd go about casting the mini, so I'll probably have to make do with a Yehtee mini for my snow troll.

It's a superb piece of work and considering that it's your first pure sculpt it's an amazing accomplishment. You should do more sculpts once this one is finished, there's a talent there that should be honed.

Have you seen the Heresy Snowtroll, Fen?



http://www.heresyminiatures.com/

[Khaine]

yeah durthu is a great mini, i use one for my flings but he is a complete kknightmare if he gets knocked over cos he's huge!

I was actually planning on making a set of hang signs for both trees since I plan on actually increasing the size by adding a "canopy of leaves" to the models. I don't see why sign identification wouldn't be a valid way of showing the trees state. I mean if there is a tree with a stunned sign or a down sign. I have also been toying with some type of turn over marker for the halflings so I can tell <Yes I have close to the worlds worst short term memory> which halflings have moved and which haven't.

[Darkson]

Somewhere I posted a pic of one of my clubmares Treemen, converted from the 40k Jungle tree sprues. Best thing about them was that they unclip from the base, leaving a stump - ideal when you stunn a Tree!

[Thadrin]

Animals in arctic regions have large feet (Polar bears, arctic hares) to aid running on snow, so don't listen to people about the big ankles/feet...

The way that's looking, I'd say that we should SERIOUSLY consider showing the finished product to Jervis...I honestly think it looks that good.

[Chairface]

The way that's looking, I'd say that we should SERIOUSLY consider showing the finished product to Jervis...I honestly think it looks that good.

Definitely!

[Thadrin]

BTW - if that Heresy Snow troll is - as I suspect - like the Cave troll, its WAY too big for BB use. I bought one intending it for my Underworld Creepers, and then I saw the scale. Love the fig, but its TOO big, and the wrists snap easily in transport.

[fen]

Have you seen the Heresy Snowtroll, Fen?

Yeah I've seen it, it's just too large and feral looking for my tastes. Something about it just doesn't ring right with me. Ewan's is very close to what I like in a mini.