Glue?!

[zenga]

Looking for a bit of advice please....

I use Revell liquid glue (for plastics) for the plastic miniatures supplied by GW and it's great, would this same glue work with the resin models supplied by FW?

I also need some help with the metal treeman and kroxigor I have...bought some super glue from the local shop and it just didn't work. At all. So I bought some Gorilla gel but that was exactly the same. It didn't even stick for a second or two and that's despite holding the two parts together for minutes.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks

[Saebelsultan]

Hi!
The plastic glue will not work on Resin. Use a brand super glue.

That being said, I am rather surprised, that the Gorilla stuff won't glue your metal minis together. I find the liquid super glue bonds faster than the gel. Also, super glue bonds faster when there is no air, so it is important to have a good fit of the two parts one wants to glue together.
When using super glue (gel or liquid) you can always sprinkle some baking soda over it to create an instant bond. If you get some flash from that, it can be sanded down afterwards.
Other than that I can recommend a tiny ball of green stuff and super flue to stick the parts together.
YouTube is also a great source.

[zenga]

Ah, ok, thank you.

Both the Gorilla super glue and stuff I bought from the local shop are gel....I will try the liquid super glue.

I was a bit stunned when neither worked and were nowhere near sticking whereas the plastic glue bonded within seconds.

[Steam Ball]

Sometimes casting process (resin, metal) leaves residues (dusts, oils) that make glues fail. Plastic glues are more solvents than glues, they melt the surfaces and "solder". Have you washed the parts? Also superglues take a lot to activate in dry conditions. Does a small drop ever dry if left in a piece of paper?

Gel gives you more time to position things, but most importantly fill gaps and some shock resitance. Liquid superglue can be combined with green stuff or paper as filler for similar "wide gap" cases, as mentioned by Saebelsultan. OTOH liquid lets a "place perfectly first" approach: hold parts (with clamps, clips, wax, clay, etc) then apply glue to narrow crack with a neddle or pin, and let it flow inside.

[faust_33]

Also, glue gets old. I was watching a youtube with Adam Savage (of Mythbusters fame) and he was saying he only buys super glue in the smallest bottles because then it should stay potent. Made sense when I thought about it, and probably explains why I've had recurring adhesion issues when I've been using a bottle of glue for a long time. I typically would do what you did, start trying other brands. Baking soda and super glue will almost always do the trick though. Combined with pinning for heavy metal mini parts, of course.

[Steam Ball]

Old superglue makes great putty, mix it with talc. That it takes minutes to dry becomes a plus in this use.

[zenga]

I haven't washed the metal....I will try that along with the baking soda option before shelling out more cash.

[Steam Ball]

Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) will activate superglue rather abruptly, test it before: drop of glue in old card, sprinkle some bicarbonate, poke with a toothpick to get an idea how it changes.

Another trick: store superglue in fridge inside a ziplock bag. Epoxy putties in the freezer. Low temps and closed wrapping slow down the reactions.